The Yukon River is one of the most important salmon-breeding
rivers in the world. Each year, the river and its tributaries
witness the return of huge Chinook salmon to spawn in tributary
creeks. Returning salmon have been a vital food source to aboriginal
peoples for thousands of years.
Some experts believe the salmon use a powerful sense of smell
to trace their route back to gravel beds where they were hatched
six or seven years earlier. However they find their way, the
salmon migration begins far out at sea where salmon mature.
Yukon salmon that have been hatched and tagged near Whitehorse,
were later caught as far away as Japan.
Until 1957, the Yukon was free-flowing from its headwaters
in British Columbia all the way to the Bering Sea on the north
coast of Alaska. Salmon swam freely through the Whitehorse
Rapids to spawn in the tributaries and creeks upstream of Whitehorse.
The river was dammed at Whitehorse in 1957 to provide electrical
power for the small city. The salmon's natural migration route
past Whitehorse was suddenly blocked by the power dam.
To provide a partial remedy, an artificial channel - the Whitehorse
Fishway - was built beside the dam. The Fishway is 366 metres
in length, the longest wooden fish ladder in the world.
The Fishway is a sloping trough fitted with a series of partitions.
Water courses down the trough from the reservoir behind the
dam, flowing over and through the partitions.
The partitions slow the flow and provide climbing fish with
resting places. The fish can jump over the partitions but most
swim through the underwater doorways joining each compartment.
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Halfway up the Fishway, the salmon enter a viewing chamber
where they are counted and measured by Fishway staff looking
through glass windows. The fish are then removed from the viewing
tank with nets and placed in the upper section of the Fishway
to complete their climb over the dam.
By the time they reach the Fishway, the salmon are exhausted
and fringed with fungus growing on their injured skins. They
have spent three months swimming the 3,000 kilometres of the
Yukon River, without eating.
The digestive systems of all Pacific Ocean salmon degenerate
at the start of the migration. By the time they reach the upper
reaches of the river, they have just enough energy and determination
remaining to built nests and spawn. Soon after despositing
and fertilizing their eggs in the gravel nests they build by
swishing their tails, both male and female salmon die.
Some of the fish are removed from the Fishway and taken to
a nearby hatchery. There, the eggs are squeezed from the females
and sperm, called milt, is squeezed from the males.
The eggs are fertilized with the milt and hatched artificially
in tanks. The following spring the baby fish, or fry, are released
by teams of students into creeks upstream from Whitehorse.
This artificial hatching of salmon eggs is needed to make up
for the loss of naturally-hatched fry who are killed by the
turbines of the power plant as they try to make their way downstream
towards the sea.
Very few of the salmon hatched or released upstream of the
dam ever make it back home after spending their adult lives
in the Pacific Ocean. Most will be eaten by other fish or trapped
at sea by commercial fishing boats. Some years, only 150 salmon
return to the Fishway.
The biggest return since the dam was built was in 1996 when
nearly 3,000 salmon were counted. Fishway staff believe the
reason for the large return was the fact that the fish had
managed to escape the fishing boats by returning two weeks
sooner than expected.
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